Desert Magic in AlUla: Where Stillness, Storytelling, and Sandstone Collide

After two decades in Los Angeles—where wellness trends rise as fast as the moon over Sunset Boulevard—I thought I knew what stillness felt like.

Then I arrived in AlUla.

Tucked in the northwestern corner of Saudi Arabia, AlUla is a cinematic expanse of golden rock formations, Nabatean tombs, and unexpected art. It’s a place that doesn’t scream for your attention—it whispers. And when it does, the entire nervous system responds.

This isn’t a destination you “do.” It’s one you surrender to.

The Dual Pulse of the Desert: Banyan Tree vs. Habitas

Where you choose to stay in AlUla will shape the energy of your experience—and there are two very distinct options:

Banyan Tree AlUla – For Serenity Seekers

Set within the Ashar Valley, Banyan Tree offers a kind of meditative solitude I didn’t know I needed. The villas feel sculpted into the sandstone, each with a private pool and views that shift color by the hour. Mornings here begin with silence and a slow breath. Think: outdoor spa rituals, herbal teas, and a sense of deep recalibration.

If your intention is rest, retreat, or simply remembering what it feels like to be unhurried—this is where you go.

Habitas AlUla – For the Creatively Curious

Habitas feels like the cool younger sibling: energetic, artsy, and open-hearted. Desert pathways lead to large-scale sculptures, trampolines, swings, and one of the most Instagrammable pools in the region—perfectly placed to reflect the light and harmony of the surrounding cliffs.

Their wellness programming includes sound healing under the stars, and everything on property is designed with an intentional sense of symmetry and balance, built to blend seamlessly into the desert landscape.

This is where you come for play, presence, and perspective—a soulful contrast to the more secluded experience at Banyan Tree.

Sites You Can’t Miss

AlUla is ancient. And not in a poetic sense—literally. Some of its tombs are older than Petra.

Hegra – A UNESCO World Heritage Site

This Nabatean necropolis is carved directly into rose-colored rock. The silence here feels reverent, like walking through a portal. The best way to explore is with a guide who can share the symbolism, geometry, and spiritual precision behind each structure.

Maraya – The Largest Mirrored Building in the World

You don’t just visit Maraya. You interact with it. It reflects the surrounding desert like a living canvas, and inside, it hosts performances and exhibitions that are as architecturally ambitious as the building itself.

Old Town AlUla – Living History

Stroll through narrow alleys lined with restored mudbrick homes, artisanal shops, and cafés. It’s where the past and present meet—without feeling curated. I recommend visiting late afternoon, when the light softens and the scent of cardamom hangs in the air.

A Thousand and One Lanterns: Dining at Dar Tantora

There’s a moment at Dar Tantora, a locally beloved boutique hotel and restaurant, that I’ll never forget.

The sun had dipped behind the cliffs. I was guided down a winding stone pathway, illuminated only by soft golden lanterns, each one casting long, flickering shadows. The air was warm. The silence was velvet. And suddenly I wasn’t just in Saudi Arabia—I was in a living version of One Thousand and One Nights.

The food is rooted in tradition, prepared with care, and served with humility. But the magic is in the atmosphere. Come for dinner. Stay for the wonder.

Elephant Rock at Dusk

No trip to AlUla is complete without visiting Elephant Rock, a natural sandstone formation that looks exactly like its namesake.

It’s most breathtaking at sunset, when the golden light ignites every curve and contour. There’s a small cluster of cafés beneath it, including Salt, a trendy burger pop-up. While the setting is undeniably special, I’d suggest coming for the view, but dining elsewhere—the culinary experience doesn’t quite match the majesty of the location.

Final Tips from LA to AlUla

Coming from LA, I wasn’t sure what to expect. But here’s what I learned:

• Pack light, breathable layers – It stays warm day and night, though evenings can get breezy. Linen is essential, and I fell in love with a local Middle Eastern brand, Authentica, which offers effortlessly elegant desert outfits—long sleeves and wide-leg pants that protect from the sun, keep you cool, and look beautifully desert-chic.
• Book a wellness treatment early – Spots at both Banyan Tree and Habitas fill quickly.
• Transportation is seamless – Private transfers are easy to arrange, and the roads are smooth.
• Embrace slowness – This is not a checklist destination. It’s a place to listen, to look, to just be.
• Travel resources – Everything you need can be found on Experience AlUla.

AlUla isn’t about escaping—it’s about remembering.
That there is beauty in stillness. That silence is healing.
That the desert, in all its vastness, can bring you closer to yourself.

And sometimes, all it takes is the soft flicker of a lantern to guide you there.