Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford Debut: A Study in Refined Seduction
For his highly anticipated debut as creative director of Tom Ford, Haider Ackermann delivered a collection that was both an homage and a departure. Held in the heart of Paris, the Fall/Winter 2025 show redefined modern elegance through Ackermann’s meticulous tailoring and moody sensuality—proving that the legacy of Tom Ford is alive but evolving under new direction.
An Evening of Quiet Luxury
The setting was intimate yet opulent, a perfect mirror to the collection itself. Unlike the bombastic shows of Ford’s early days, Ackermann embraced an understated theatricality—dim lighting, plush velvet seating, and a soundtrack that swayed between sultry jazz and electronic melancholy. The message was clear: this was a collection for those who understand that power lies in precision, not excess.
From the first look, the shift in aesthetic was apparent. Gone were the overtly glossy, hyper-sexualized silhouettes of Ford’s heyday. Instead, Ackermann delivered razor-sharp tailoring, fluid lines, and a restrained color palette that whispered rather than shouted. Midnight blues, deep plums, and charcoals played across the runway, punctuated by moments of stark ivory and rich oxblood. The Tom Ford woman—and man—was still as seductive as ever, but now with a new layer of mystery.
The Art of Tailoring
Ackermann’s mastery of the suit took center stage, reworking Ford’s signature power dressing with his own brand of European finesse. Blazers draped over the body like liquid armor, their structured shoulders balanced by nipped-in waists and elongated lapels. Trousers followed suit, either falling in dramatic wide-leg elegance or sculpting the leg in a way that felt effortless rather than constricting.
For women, the power suit was reimagined with a softness Ford rarely entertained—wool-silk blends and cashmere played against cutaway blazers that exposed just the right amount of skin. For men, a return to peak lapels and double-breasted silhouettes reinforced Ackermann’s affinity for controlled luxury.
Textures and the Language of Fabric
The collection spoke in textures rather than prints. Velvets gleamed under the low light, whisper-thin silks billowed with every step, and butter-soft leather hugged the body without effort. A standout moment came in the form of a full-length trench in liquid silver—more like armor than outerwear—its high collar framing the face like a modern-day portrait of power.
Eveningwear, always a staple for Tom Ford, was given a poetic revision. Where once there were barely-there gowns dripping in sequins, Ackermann offered sculptural draping and unexpected restraint. A black column dress, interrupted only by a single origami-like fold at the waist, stood out as a masterclass in minimalism.
A New Chapter for Tom Ford
As the final look disappeared into the dimly lit venue, it became clear that Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford is not about recreating the past—it’s about refining the future. The sex appeal remains, but now it’s woven with a layer of intrigue, intellect, and impeccable craftsmanship.
With this collection, Ackermann has established his voice within the house: a whisper that commands attention. If this is the first act, the next seasons are sure to be a thrilling continuation of Tom Ford’s legacy—under new, but undoubtedly skilled, hands.