La Dolce Vita at Villa Treville: A Journey Through Time and Elegance
There are moments in time that feel frozen in cinematic perfection, where elegance, intrigue, and an effortless joie de vivre converge under the Mediterranean sun. One such moment is captured in a striking black-and-white photograph of Donald Downes and Bob Ullman—two expatriates who, in the late 1940s, found their own version of paradise in the cliffs of Positano. Sitting on the terrace of Villa Treville, framed by the rugged Amalfi Coast, they embody a timeless allure: one man lost in the crisp folds of a newspaper, the other contemplative, cigar in hand, their morning coffee set between them. More than just a snapshot of two men, this image tells the story of a sanctuary that would become a haven for the world’s artistic elite.
A Refuge for Dreamers
Villa Treville, perched above the crystalline waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, was not just a home—it was a stage for la dolce vita. When Downes, a former intelligence officer turned scholar, and Ullman, a charismatic bon vivant, acquired the villa in 1948, they unknowingly set the foundation for what would become a cultural landmark. A retreat for poets, painters, musicians, and actors, the villa’s walls absorbed stories of impassioned debates, secret rendezvous, and artistic revelations. Here, time slowed to the rhythm of the waves, and inspiration came as effortlessly as the sea breeze drifting through its sunlit rooms.
The Art of Slow Living
Today, stepping into Villa Treville is like stepping into a bygone era where elegance is second nature. Each suite is named after one of the many luminaries who graced its halls—Zeffirelli, Callas, Bernstein—and the interiors still whisper of their presence. The terraces, draped in bougainvillea, invite guests to linger over morning espresso or indulge in the timeless ritual of aperitivo at sunset. The experience is immersive: the taste of freshly caught seafood, the scent of citrus groves, the sound of waves lapping against the private beach below.
The Legacy of Downes & Ullman
Though Downes and Ullman’s tenure at Villa Treville ended with tragedy—Ullman’s untimely death in 1969—what they cultivated endures. Their villa would later be passed on to Franco Zeffirelli, who elevated its legend by hosting an ever-rotating cast of cultural icons. Today, Villa Treville stands as a boutique retreat, but its spirit remains unchanged. It is still a refuge for those who seek beauty, art, and the intoxicating rhythm of a life well-lived.
A Timeless Escape
For modern travelers, Villa Treville offers something rare: an invitation to step into a world where time is measured not in hours but in moments. A morning spent reading on the terrace, a contemplative pause with a cigar in hand, an afternoon lost in conversation over Negronis and sun-drenched laughter—these are the hallmarks of an escape that transcends mere travel. Here, as Downes and Ullman once did, you don’t just visit—you belong.
As the sun melts into the sea and the silhouette of Positano glows in the evening light, one can almost hear the echoes of those who came before, their lives woven into the very fabric of the villa. Some places are simply destinations, but Villa Treville is an experience—one that lingers, like the embers of a perfect evening, long after the journey ends.